If you've spent more than five minutes riding a stock pit bike, you probably already know that the factory klx 110 bars are way too low for anyone over the age of ten. It's usually the very first thing people swap out because the stock setup makes you feel like you're riding a tricycle. Your knees hit the grips every time you try to turn, and your back starts aching after twenty minutes of being hunched over like a gargoyle. Upgrading those bars isn't just about looking cool—though it definitely helps—it's about actually being able to control the bike without feeling cramped.
The stock bars on a KLX110 are made of cheap, heavy steel. They're designed to be inexpensive for the manufacturer and just "good enough" for a kid to putter around the yard. But if you're an adult or a taller teenager jumping these bikes or riding them hard, those steel bars are going to bend the first time the bike tips over in the dirt. Aluminum bars are the standard upgrade for a reason; they're lighter, they look better, and they can actually take a hit without turning into a pretzel.
Why the Stock Bars Have to Go
The biggest issue with the factory setup is the height. Kawasaki builds these bikes for children, so the ergonomics reflect that. When an adult sits on a stock KLX110, the center of gravity feels all wrong. You're sitting too far back because your knees are in the way of the steering, which lightens the front end and makes the bike feel sketchy in corners. By installing taller klx 110 bars, you open up the cockpit. You can actually move your body forward, weight the front tire, and ride the bike like it was meant to be ridden.
Beyond the height, there's the vibration factor. Steel bars don't do a great job of dampening the buzz from the engine. After a long day of riding, your hands might feel numb or tingly. High-quality aftermarket aluminum bars have better flex characteristics. They're stiff enough to give you precise control but "soft" enough to soak up some of that high-frequency vibration and the jarring impact of landing a jump.
Choosing the Right Bend and Rise
When you start looking for new bars, you're going to see a lot of talk about "bend." This basically refers to the height (rise), width, and how far the ends of the bars sweep back toward you. For the KLX110, the most popular choice by a mile is the "XR50 bend" or "CRF50 bend" from brands like ProTaper. Don't let the name confuse you; even though they're labeled for a 50cc bike, they are the go-to height for 110cc pit bikes.
These bars are significantly taller than stock. They usually offer about 4 to 5 inches of rise, which is the sweet spot for most riders. If you go much taller than that, the bike starts to feel like a chopper and becomes hard to handle. If you go lower, you're right back to the knee-slapping problem.
Another thing to consider is the "sweep." Some bars are relatively flat, while others pull back toward your chest. If you like to ride aggressively and stay over the front of the bike, a flatter bar with less sweep usually feels better. If you're just cruising trails and want to sit upright comfortably, a bit more sweep can take the pressure off your wrists.
7/8 Inch vs. Oversized Bars
Most klx 110 bars come in a 7/8-inch diameter. This is the standard size that fits directly into your stock triple clamp. It's the easiest and cheapest way to upgrade because you don't need any extra parts. You just unbolt the old ones, slide the new ones in, and you're good to go.
However, some people prefer "Fat Bars" or oversized 1-1/8 inch bars. These are tapered, being thicker in the middle and narrowing down to 7/8 at the ends for your grips and levers. They're incredibly strong and don't usually have a crossbar, which gives the bike a much cleaner, modern look. The catch is that they won't fit your stock KLX110 clamps. You'll either need to buy bar adapters—which add even more height—or an aftermarket top triple clamp designed for oversized bars. For most casual riders, the standard 7/8-inch bars with a crossbar are more than enough.
The Cable Length Struggle
Here is the part that catches a lot of people off guard. When you put significantly taller klx 110 bars on your bike, your stock cables might suddenly be too short. The throttle cable and the front brake cable (or housing) have to reach much further up than they used to.
On many KLX110 models, you can get away with the stock cables if you reroute them. Usually, this involves running them behind the triple clamp instead of in front of it to gain an extra inch or two of slack. It's a bit of a puzzle, but it usually works. However, if you're moving to a very tall bar or adding a tall seat as well, you might find that your throttle starts pulling itself when you turn the bars all the way to the left. If that happens, stop riding immediately. You'll need to buy extended cables. It's a bit of a pain and adds to the cost, but it beats having the bike whiskey-throttle into a fence.
Installation Tips and Tricks
Swapping out your klx 110 bars is a pretty straightforward Saturday morning project, but there are a few things that can make it easier. First, getting the old grips off can be a nightmare. Unless you're planning on saving them (which you shouldn't, just buy new ones), the easiest way is to just carefully cut them off with a razor blade.
When you go to install the new grips on your new bars, don't use dish soap or hairspray if you can help it. Hairspray works okay for a while, but if it gets wet, your grips will start spinning like a throttle. Use actual grip glue or, better yet, the safety wire method. If you're feeling fancy, you can get "lock-on" grips that bolt onto the bars, which completely eliminates the glue mess.
Also, pay attention to the "knurling" on your new bars. That's the textured area where the clamps grip the metal. Make sure your bars are centered before you tighten everything down. Most aftermarket bars have alignment marks printed right on the center, which makes it way easier to get them perfectly straight.
Don't Forget the Details
While you're changing the bars, it's a great time to look at your levers and perch. The stock Kawasaki levers are often a bit bulky. Many riders switch to "shorty" levers at the same time they do their bars. It makes the cockpit feel much more professional and gives you better one or two-finger braking and clutching.
Also, think about the bar pad. Most 7/8-inch klx 110 bars come with a foam crossbar pad. Don't throw it away or leave it off because you think it looks "cleaner" without it. That pad is there to save your teeth or your chest if you ever case a jump or come to a sudden stop. It's a small piece of insurance that actually looks pretty cool once the bike is all put together.
Is the Upgrade Worth It?
If you're wondering whether spending $60 to $100 on new bars is worth it, the answer is a resounding yes. It is arguably the single best modification you can make to a KLX110, especially if you aren't a small child. It changes the entire personality of the bike. You'll go from feeling like you're riding "on top" of a toy to feeling like you're "inside" a real motorcycle.
The bike will handle better, your back will thank you, and you won't be constantly worried about bending your bars every time the bike hits the ground. It's one of those rare mods where you notice the difference the literal second you sit on the bike. So, grab a set of taller bars, figure out your cable routing, and get out there. Your knees will definitely thank you.